Got questions? Here’s some answers.
If you’re referring to the primed case filled with powder with a bullet stuck down the throat it’s a fu#&ing cartridge not a caliber. A caliber is a hole.
Next question.
Our stocks are built using a combination of carbon fiber, fiberglass, structural foams and epoxy resin.
Yup. We don’t have a “maximum power limit” of chamberings when using our stocks. We’ve built a number of 50 BMG’s and they’re doing fine. Have at it!
Our stocks are primarily made and inletted to fit OEM configurations so as a rule the stock will fit the action and factory bottom metal very well. The same for a factory barrel contour. Our Drop-in Stocks are offered only in factory configurations along with some popular bottom metals. Depending on your combination of action, barrel and bottom metal the fit will vary. However when using 700 clones and aftermarket or modified parts fitting will likely be necessary. The amount of fitting required will pretty much come down to how square of a peg you’re putting in a round hole.
Our stocks don’t have and don’t require pillars. Pillars came about years ago for use in wood stocks to prevent the fibers from compressing at the guard screws resulting in varying pressure and therefore a loss of consistency. The material around the guard screws in our stocks is solid fiber-reinforced epoxy and is, in this application, un-compressible. This makes pillars in our stocks unnecessary. In some cases, like when a pillar with a large outside diameter is used, it can considerably weaken the stock in that area as it reduces the amount of homogenous material and also forms a stress riser.
You can certainly do that if you want. We recommend using a pillar with as small an OD as you can.
Yes you can cut through the skin and into the forend foam if you need to. We do this regularly to bed larger contours into our stocks. Only a slight amount of rigidity is lost as we designed them with this case in mind. If you want the utmost in rigidity then be sure to order the heavyweight option since it is solid and quite strong.
While not absolutely necessary, we bed every rifle we sell and recommend you do the same. It wont turn a 3″ gun into a 1/4″ gun but it will help consistency while helping with aesthetics. We offer bedding kits and will be releasing some “how-to” bedding information in the near future.
We’ve used Marine Tex Epoxy for quite some time with great results. It’s strong, and impervious to darn near anything and it’s a perfect consistency for bedding.
Do not bake the stock. The foam will expand at high temps and It’ll end up looking like a snake that just ate a rat. It will also void your warranty.
It’s similar to painting just about anything in that preparation is key. Clean off the stock with a solvent such as lacquer thinner or use wax and grease remover. Sand the gelcoat to create some tooth for the paint to adhere to using nothing finer than 320 grit. 240 or even 120 is fine. Then clean again and mask before applying your paint of choice according to the manufacturer’s instructions. People have used all manner of rattle can paint with various degrees of success/durability. We use a high end catalyzed epoxy paint and it has excellent wear resistance. Some have used bed-liner type material to good effect. Just remember… don’t bake it.
Well I don’t have an exhaustive database of other companies’ gun stock specs sitting right here in front of me so you’d have to do some one-to-one comparing on your own. But I can absolutely say that ours are better looking. Hope this helps.
A max length of pull of nearly 15″ is possible with our stocks while maintaining the toe-line through a large recoil pad. After that you’d likely have to rely on spacers and wouldn’t have that nice toe-line. But really really tall people are used to those kind of compromises I suppose.
We use Loctite 416. When applied to the outside edge or “skin” of the stock (not the foam) it forms a nearly indestructible bond to the pad. As with other forms of super glue, it can also form a nearly indestructible bond between your fingers. Tread carefully.
Each model has the barrel size it can accommodate noted in the specs. If it can’t from the factory you can open it up so it will fit. This may nearly or completely eliminate stock line near the forend tip. If that’s the case you’d need to build up the sides a bit with your preferred bedding compound. Or you could wait until we offer that configuration. We are currently working to ensure that the majority of our offerings will fit the Sendero Light at least. Stay tuned.
If it’s not in the options, it’s probably not an option. But we’d very much like to hear from you about what “it” is so that we can continue to develop products that solve people’s problems. Let us know what you’re looking for. We appreciate your feedback!
Absolutely.
Since fitting will be likely (if it’s not order a Drop-In) we don’t offer paint. In most cases you’d have to damage the finish to do the fitting then need it repainted. We recommend doing any fitting and bedding you deem necessary then shipping it back for painting services. If this is something you’re interested contact us.
Simple. Do the following without skipping any steps*:
- Shoot 1 shot and clean thoroughly for 15 shots using the ammo you intend to hunt with.
- Then shoot 1/2 a shot and clean for 21 shots using the same ammo.
- After this shoot nine 2-shot groups using ammo with bullets that were dipped in a mixture of nutmeg and orange soda.
- Retrieve ALL bullets fired during steps 1-3 and melt them down.
- Using material from step 4 cast into fresh bullets measuring exactly 0.0000587″ larger than your groove diameter.
- Fill fire-formed cases to the neck with a 50/50 mixture of Unique and the little rocks you scraped off of some 36 grit sand paper.
- Seat bullets according to best OAL practices. You should have 43.5 loaded cartridges.
- Now fire these cartridges two at a time until all ammunition is spent making sure to clean with a nylon brush between each double shot.
- Perform a final bore clean using your bore solvent of choice.
- You’re all set!
*do not do any of these things under any circumstances.
Some have a rather elaborate and lengthy process for barrel break-in while others don’t do much, if anything. Keeping in mind that different barrels often need different things, we fall in between these two ends of the spectrum. Generally speaking we do the following:
- Initial cleaning (we use bronze brushes but understand many have excellent results with nylon)
- Shoot three to five 3-shot groups while keeping the barrel reasonably cool.
- Thorough clean.
- How do the groups look?
- OK? You’re done.
- Not OK? Back to the range with same and additional loads.
- Repeat steps 2-4 until satisfied. Sometimes if it’s being ornery we’ll use some J-B Bore Paste to do some very light lapping. Generally not necessary.
That’s it.